THE PROSPECTS FOR THE USE OF CERAMIDES IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR RESTORING THE SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32782/health-2026.1.17Keywords:
skin, barrier function, ceramides, transepidermal water loss, cosmetic technology, delivery systemsAbstract
Ceramides are key lipid components of the stratum corneum that ensure the structural integrity of the epidermal barrier, regulate transepidermal water loss, and protect the skin from the effects of external physical and chemical factors. Disturbances in the quantitative and qualitative composition of ceramides are associated with the development of dermatological conditions, including atopic dermatitis, xerosis, and premature skin aging, which determines significant scientific and practical interest in the prospects of using ceramides in body skin care products. This article systematizes current knowledge on the structure, classification, and main pathways of ceramide formation in keratinocytes. Particular attention is paid to the metabolic functions of ceramides and the regulation of ceramide synthases, primarily CerS2 and CerS3, which are responsible for the formation of long-chain and ultra-long-chain ceramides that are critically important for the organization of lamellar lipid structures in the stratum corneum. An analysis of factors influencing endogenous ceramide synthesis and their potential use to enhance the effectiveness of cosmetic products is presented. A separate section is devoted to the sources and technologies for obtaining ceramides for cosmetic applications. The evolution of approaches from animal-derived and chemically synthesized ceramides to modern plant-derived ceramides (phytoceramides) and biotechnologically synthesized compounds obtained through microbial fermentation and enzymatic synthesis is analyzed. The advantages of biotechnological synthesis in terms of safety, environmental sustainability, and structural similarity to endogenous skin ceramides are demonstrated. The information on the use of ceramides in cosmetology has been summarized, including their advantages and disadvantages, and the necessity of employing modern delivery systems for ceramides in cosmetic formulations has been substantiated. The advantages and limitations of modern nanostructured ceramide delivery systems are discussed. The obtained conclusions and generalizations are of significant importance for the development of effective dermatological and cosmetic products aimed at restoring and maintaining the skin barrier.
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